Why is it rough, and how can I smooth it? Dot-Punch and drill Pilot hole — by doing this it will keep the drill bit central on the hole, minimising the possibility for it to wander. Excessive feed - reduce the feed. Incorrect or insufficient coolant - correct. It helps make a clean hole as well as keep the drill sharp for longer. Wondering why your drill bit isn't lasting all that long? You can give them a longer life! What's killing my drill bit? How do I fix it?. Coolant drilling fluid not reaching the drill point, or not enough coolant used - check your coolant.
Too much speed, or not enough feed - review and adjust. Chips on the lips No, we're not talking about lunch. How is this happening? Chipping on my cutting edge Chips on the cutting edge of your drill bit won't be giving you a good job!
How do I fix it? A large run out after the drill was attached or a loose chuck - check your chuck, adjust or choose another one. Here is a popular drilling liquid. Now you know something's wrong when this happens! What's going on? How do I avoid it? Insufficient or incorrect coolant - check and adjust. Excessive speed - slow down! What's the problem?
How can I stop it? Did you know different drill points can affect your drill speed? Why so slow? How can I improve it? Read more. These are the best selling Mag Drills The mud is pumped from the suction pit to the bit, then back up, flushing out the cuttings with it.
At the surface, the mud is pumped to the settling pit where abrasive silica and cuttings settle out before the mud returns to the suction pit. It also helps to include at least one degree turn in the mud stream so the flow does not travel straight through the pit system. If the fluid level in the pits drops quickly, the drill most likely encountered a porous formation where the mud is seeping from the borehole into openings in the rock.
Combat this by adding a thick bentonite mixture to the suction pit. Mix the bentonite thoroughly in a gallon barrel of water by putting the suction and discharge hoses of the mud pump into the barrel and run it while slowly adding the bentonite powder.
Mix for 10 to 20 minutes and work the suction around the bottom to catch any lumps. Remember that it takes about 30 minutes for the bentonite to fully hydrate and thicken. If the pH is low, add calcium carbonate soda ash. When the mixture is ready, add it to the suction pit and continue circulating the drilling mud. If this does not solve the problem, add materials such as chopped straw to the mud to help clog the porous rock.
If the borehole caves in, try to work the bit loose. Sometimes it is possible to dislodge the bit and salvage the project. However, in the worst-case scenario, the bit and some of the pipe will have to be left in the ground and the well abandoned.
If removing the pipe is not practical for some reason, simply raise the bit up about 5 to 10 feet and leave the mud pump running to maintain circulation. If a break will be long, or operation is halted overnight, the pipe must be removed.
The answer is in the drilling mud. Always monitor and keep a log of the drill cuttings in the mud as it exits the borehole. If the cuttings change to a fine or coarse sand or gravel, the bit has likely drilled through water-bearing strata. Another indicator is if the mud dilutes and the temperature drops.
This is a sure sign that the mud is mixing with groundwater. The only way to be certain, though, is to develop a well and test the yield. This happens for different reasons depending on the soil. If this happens while drilling in clay, the ground is likely swelling and closing the hole in the time between removing the drill pipe and inserting the casing. The best solution is to pull the casing and ream the hole to open it.
Another option is to use mud additives that mitigate the problem by preventing the clay from hydrating. For the well to last and provide clean running water for years to come, it must be sealed off from surface water to prevent contamination.
Excessive sparks from motor. Are you experiencing excessive sparks from your motor? This can be alarming, but it is actually a common symptom. Let us walk you through the repair process by first narrowing down which part is causing the problem. Check the carbon brushes, holder, armature, springs, and field.
Once you have the part figured out, read our expert technician's advice on how to complete the repair. Refer to your owner's manual for detailed information on your model. Motor spins but chuck doesn't. When the motor spins but the chuck doesn't in your electric drill, you'll want to inspect the gears, spindle, and shaft. Save on time and money and diagnose the issue using our expert repair guide. Reference your owner's manual for information on your particular model.
Bad vibration. If your electric drill is experiencing bad vibration, this can make it very uncomfortable to handle. You will want to inspect the following parts for wear and tear: the bearings, spindle, gear, and drill chuck. Follow our repair guide for helpful tips on how to fix the problem yourself. Refer to your owner's manual for detailed instructions for your model. Chuck won't hold bits. If your chuck won't hold bits, check the following parts: the drill chuck, keys, and chuck screw.
This should be an easy repair that you can do on your own, with some help from us. Once you know which part is causing the problem, check out our expert tips on how to complete the repair.
Check your owner's manual for detailed instructions on your model. Chuck is stuck open or closed. If your chuck is stuck open or closed, check the drill chuck, key, and chuck screw for any obvious malfunction.
Once you have pinpointed which part is causing the problem, take a look at the corresponding repair advice for instructions on how to complete a DIY repair. Check your owner's manual for complete instruction for your model. Grinding or squealing sound.
0コメント